My BOSCH SR 9.6E cordless drill got a second life end of 2013

[Kiriakos GR]

About three months back I did rebuild the battery pack for third time since 1996,
and even open it up to inspect the all mechanism and renew the grease.
 
Today I did spend 4 EUR to get a new chuck key because I lost the old before some months.
The new key made me realize the terrible condition of the chuck holes, and moved back to the store for a new chuck this time.
The chuck exchange were rather easy, by locking the axle by one 11mm key and by using one large water pump pliers hand tool, I did manage to spin and unscrew the old one.

And now I am having a big smile in my face, this truly well build cordless drill with electronic trigger, is going to stay around probably for another 20 years. 

[giorgos]

Very good restoration! Battery rebuilding is the only way to extend your tools life, because if you attempt to buy an original battery, the most possible is to find it in a price nearly the price of a new tool, or if your tool is rather old its impossible to find the original battery for it.
Did you search for a chunk without key (as new ones) compatible with your tool? I am asking this because I have a Bosch PSB500 drill (with cord) from 1995 in good working condition, and I look for a new type chunk to replace the old.

[Kiriakos GR]

Yes there is local availability of BOSCH key-less chuck too, but I do not like them.

I drill mostly metal and even since three years back, I got these special HSS-G drill bits set by HAWERA ( Bosch re-brand).
By my experiences, when using the larger in diameter drill bits, it is best the chuck to lock down by the key.
 
I do also believe that the chuck with the key eliminates unnecessary misuse of the axle system that the chuck rotates.

In my research in the local market found also an made in Bulgaria key-less chuck for just 6EUR.
When returned back to my base with the new chuck, searched the web about the ROHM original  manufacturer, and discovered this chuck to be priced between 32 to 45EUR.

My main power drill is one Hitachi blue (1000 EUR) of value,  and uses also the same size chuck key,
somehow I do feel lucky that my two main tools are using the same key today.   

Battery rebuild: BOSCH declared those series as EOL before many years, and stopped even offering batteries for them.
Spend about 12EUR on eBay about getting 8X fresh NI-CAD when locally are sold for 2,5 to 3 EUR its one.
I have manage to convert the original battery case in a way that battery rebuild is almost easy.
I guess that I am walking against the marketing flow, but if you can it always works in your benefit.
 
 
   
   

[giorgos]

I noticed from one of the pictures that you have post, that your tool have been made in Switzerland.
 My old BOSCH PSB500 have been made in Switzerland too. They belong to the same generation (90s)I suppose , so they possible made from the same factory.
My new GBH 2-20 is made in Germany. It surprised me plesantly  as nowdays big companies have move their factories at Eastern countries.
 Naturally every company which move in other country, set the production standards, so the final product is the same, independent the country that have been made.
 Even so,my personal opinion is that the feeling is different if your tool is made in Gremany than Poland e.g.

[Kiriakos GR]

Every generation (series) of tools it is based in master plan regarding it life cycle.
When I visited the local BOSCH authorized reseller he told me that 10 years is the life cycle that BOSCH have in mind for their tools.
He was very surprised by looking my cordless drill which make him to push the trigger so listen the sound, and actually evaluate the condition of the tool.

When he realized that I am an genuine power-tools-lover , he gave me as gift three cobalt drill bits so to test them. 

Locally sponsored product review. haha   

[giorgos]

Good deal! I hope that he gave you drills at the diameters you mostly need:D
I have some of them too.  I also use long drills 20-30cm (not that at picture) that its hard to find everywhere, and their price is not low. These are very fragile, recent I broke one (3,5mmX 20cm) accidently, when I was drilling an aluminium frame from side to side. The drill reached an internal metal part , suddenly changed direction and broke until I prevent to stop drilling Fortunately I ever have a spare drill bit, so I continue the work.
Its a rule for me , when you work away from your base , you should ever have spare tools/accesories with you. You will save time by this way.

[Kiriakos GR]

Yes I do understand or better said... I do feel of what you are saying.

I am also armed for a battle in every terrain. 

[giorgos]

Ammunition makes the weapon, as we say in Greece :  tools makes the technician

[giavra]

Yes there is local availability of BOSCH key-less chuck too, but I do not like them.

I drill mostly metal and even since three years back, I got these special HSS-G drill bits set by HAWERA ( Bosch re-brand).
By my experiences, when using the larger in diameter drill bits, it is best the chuck to lock down by the key.
 
I do also believe that the chuck with the key eliminates unnecessary misuse of the axle system that the chuck rotates.

In my research in the local market found also an made in Bulgaria key-less chuck for just 6EUR.
When returned back to my base with the new chuck, searched the web about the ROHM original  manufacturer, and discovered this chuck to be priced between 32 to 45EUR.

My main power drill is one Hitachi blue (1000 EUR) of value,  and uses also the same size chuck key,
somehow I do feel lucky that my two main tools are using the same key today.   

Battery rebuild: BOSCH declared those series as EOL before many years, and stopped even offering batteries for them.
Spend about 12EUR on eBay about getting 8X fresh NI-CAD when locally are sold for 2,5 to 3 EUR its one.
I have manage to convert the original battery case in a way that battery rebuild is almost easy.
I guess that I am walking against the marketing flow, but if you can it always works in your benefit.
 
 
   
 

Well done Kyriakos nice rebuild work for the battery and for for the trick patent that you use about

holding the chuck key in the side of the body.I want to mention that there is another way to open that kind of bosch battery type no need to cut with dremel tool around the top of the battery to open you also can heat  the point of the battery connection with hot air gun and after that with a hammer with plastic edge (Mazolla)
you can give a small's hit with some care not hard and after that the connection point open and you can replace the internal batteries with new one and after you can glue again and seal the battery as factory first .

[Kiriakos GR]

Thanks John for the tip,
from time to time I do check eBay about such batteries (original ones) so to get in my hands another one as spare.

They are circulating batteries of this type today (made in China), but I do not trust the quality of the plastic case.
 
(Mazolla) ?  or Matsola .. either way I was had one around, nowadays I have another one (hand made) hammer with rubber head (edge). 

[Bebyko]

Hi Kiriakos GR, i also just got a BOSCH SR 9.6E, i got 2 batteries, one is a BOSCH NTC and another one is a ACCU NTC, the ACCU one is pretty much dead, does recharge, does spin the drill but has no power, i'm looking to give it a try to repair the battery because a new one exceeds the price of the tool, how do i do that exactly, how do i repair the battery with new cells, could you help me with some specific information + pics please ? i'll post some pics of my tool if i have a response.

Thanks! Greetings from Romania.


Also, if you have some info on the clutch that would be great, i have tried to dissasable it and i failed miserable, i don't know how to put it back where do all the pieces go ?

[Kiriakos GR]

I have a small difficulty to encourage you so to proceed in a battery rebuild.

Other than buying battery cells due eBay from China, you need to assembly those cells and solder them by their tabs, not to mention that you need special paper (unable to catch fire) so to use it as walls between the battery cells.

The last part you can avoid it by getting more expensive batteries which have carton coating from the factory instead of heat shrink nylon. 

By opening your old battery, take allot of pictures, this will help you to rebuild it.